Clothing, between material and history
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From protection to expression: a brief history of clothing
Clothing has accompanied humankind since prehistory. It protects the body, but it also conveys an identity, a sense of belonging or a social position. Its history follows that of techniques, ways of life and cultures.
The first garments: protecting the body
It is difficult to date the first garments precisely: skins and fibres rarely survive over such long periods.
The tools found by archaeologists nevertheless bear witness to the working of skins and the making of garments. Needles made of bone or ivory later made it possible to join pieces together and create more fitted shapes, notably to protect against the cold.
Textiles open up new possibilities
With the development of spinning and weaving, fabrics offered other ways of dressing the body.
The Tarkhan dress, discovered in Egypt and dated to more than 5,000 years ago, is one of the oldest surviving woven garments. Made of linen, it already shows elaborate workmanship.
Clothing traditions diversified from one region to another: draped fabrics, tunics, sewn pieces and fitted garments existed side by side. The history of clothing therefore does not follow a single path.
Forms that reflect societies
Over the centuries, materials, colours and ornaments also expressed status and cultural belonging.
In Europe, the 14th century notably marked a shift towards more fitted silhouettes and more visible changes in shape. Cut played a greater part in enhancing the body.
Industrialisation transforms production
In the 19th century, the development of the sewing machine and of industrial workshops profoundly changed production. Mass-produced clothing gained ground alongside made-to-measure work.
In the 20th century, ready-to-wear broadened the spread of designs and trends. Creation came to unfold between couture, industrial production and individual practice.
For the patternmaker, this history is a source of observation: each era proposes a different relationship between the body, the material and the volume. Understanding these relationships nourishes the creation of new garments.